ralph lauren

It was a day at the races for the 40th anniversary show at Ralph Lauren. A true iconic testament to everything American sportswear, Lauren has shaped our desire to have the right clothes for a weekend in Aspen or a black tie event on Park Avenue. It's a very specific look that has been consistent and influential not only in how we dress but it's evolved into a lifestyle brand, solidifying Lauren as purveyor of American thoroughbred chic. This collection, presented for the titans of New York (Sarah Jessica, Mayor Bloomberg, Martha Stewart, DeNiro, etc.), wasn't so much a retrospective of what he's good at but a dynamic expression of taste, tailoring, and proving that although his brand is almost a half century old, he's still as relevant and interesting to watch. His inspiration may have been New York and "My Fair Lady", but maybe because of my Kentucky roots, there was something deliciously Southern, and specifically Derbyfied about the show. A strong equestrian influence touched almost every look ranging from the crisp riding jodhpurs, dresses draped in what appeared to be jockey silks, riding crops as an unexpected accessory, and a cacophony of splendid head attire fit for just the right Derby extravaganza. His women expertly straddled the line between Southern deb and English prepster in sculpted blazers in black and white and silk blouses in various candy colors. The mix of the white and black, floral print, and evening sections of jewel tones worked in crafty harmony. Although many of the looks picked up on the masculine/feminine approach, each look highlighted the best parts of a woman's body--shoulders, arms, waist, and the neck. It was also a very ladylike presentation with gloves, hats, pearls, and bags in abundance. We've seen him do all this before but this time it's better and there's a reflection in his statement. Where would American women be without their favorite Polo sweater resting on their shoulders or the sophisticated evening gown begging for a gasp upon entering a room? Young designers should take note of Lauren's power and prowess in American fashion. He is the definition of someone who loves innovation, the body, and what it means to be and look American.

Standouts:
The best bermudas I've seen all week
The beaded evening gown
A short suit perfect for spring
A modern but romantic LBD

Gold Digger on:
Carolina Herrera