Wednesday, September 26, 2007

burberry prorsum




I've always thought Christopher Bailey has a more persuasive personal style than what he typically envisions for Burberry. His suits cut a strong figure, but he's also slightly relaxed and looks comfortable without being too fussy and overdone. And then I see another collection that is bloated with more and more stuff. I don't think one's personal style should be entirely reflective in your design aesthetic but maybe Bailey always feels like he has to over compensate just a little bit to make up for the other wise conservative and traditional brand.

New York taught us that lightness is vital for spring and perhaps Milan has something oppose to that idea because Bailey's look for spring 2008 is hard, heavy, and overt. The neutral palette that largely consisted of every shade of gunmetal works for the chic warrior theme. Studded belts grabbed at the waist and naughty gossamer socks paired themselves with sexy stilettos. Sunglasses made for the Special Ops Forces and the influence of militarism in the form of hard edged jackets or various takes on the trench coat would be perfect for any man or woman on a mission. However, reduction is not one of Bailey's strengths when he veers into this tough babe territory with unnecessary and contrived additions thrown together for one whole look that snowballed into a decidedly underwhelming and out of place collection. Ruching, fringe, lots and lots of studs, lace up accents, and everything else was all too much and too much of an obvious take on luxury. After all these are clothes made for people with a lot of money and according to Bailey they want to wear that fact. I'm also always confused as to what kind of man Bailey has in mind because I don't know too many men, even the most fashionably adventurous, who want sequined tops, gold lame trenches, or Michael Jacksonesque army jackets. Focus and a less is more attitude could lead Bailey into more interesting waters where for spring everything isn't so feigned in its toughness and tarted up in its luxuriousness.

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