3.1 phillip lim

If there is anyone with more eyes on him this week it's Phillip Lim. No, he doesn't have the financial backing of a major conglomerate and no he's not rebounding from a miserable season past, the focus on Lim and his brand, 3.1 Phillip Lim, is whether he continue his quick ascension to the top that he has forged so effortlessly and surprisingly in such a short amount of time. His pieces are untraditional takes on traditional pieces. A refreshing color or unique detail will separate him from his contemporaries and most importantly, earn him a audience that comes back for more, especially when you price the collection at a somewhat reasonable price point. (pieces often range from around $100 and up) His covetable pieces are known for selling out before the end of the season and exude a quiet, modern, simplicity that's never over reaching. For his spring collection you could tell the pressure was on and for the most part he delivered. It's a sandal season for Lim and that was one of the initial problems I had with the show. Perhaps it's because Birkenstocks are a crime of nature to me and I have no interest in sandals except for toiling around the house or at the beach, but sandals were everywhere in the collection. The idea of pairing funky sandals that fastened at the ankle was somewhat acceptable on women, but a misstep for men. The details were there in a minidress with a graphic texture over the bust and stone pendants dangling from the neck (the oatmeal color was a little off), a citrus knee length dress adorned with a strands of metallic ropes at the clavicle, or belts on evening dresses. The fringe accents on some pieces were also off track but when he got it he did with an "Umbrellas of Cherbourg" worthy blue minidress and yellow coat or a gold mini with control that was a welcomed respite to the volume in the other dresses. The mens collection was strong as ever with my favorite being the dark shorts with a double-breasted jacket or a Coca Cola can-red trench that continues the trend this week of primary colors used in traditional outwear. The pale gold sweater with a tiny white bow protruding from the collar was something I haven't seen and when paired with the simple flat front short it's less costumey and cutesy. The collection used primary colors quite a bit and smartly paired them against muted khakis and other earth tones. Does it all culminate to a success? It depends on who you ask I suppose, but in my mind I wanted more from Lim. It did drum up memories of "Sesame Street" (maybe it's all of those colors) and "Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory" (look at how the models wear their hats and look at how Gene Wilder wore his in the film), but maybe that isn't such a bad thing. I do, however, like my a clothes just a little more grown-up.

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