Monday, September 10, 2007

narciso rodriguez




Narciso Rodriguez's "ninjas" descended upon the runway this weekend in what is surely one of the best shows of the week. His minimalist palette is consistent every season with an almost compulsive love for tailoring and fit. His clothes are linear and architectural in their detailing which leads to the effect of fabric covering the body almost like a modern sculpture. His theme this season of kimono dressing could have been gimmicky, but the subtle nipped waists and loose and crisp looks that Rodriguez envisioned were anything but a cartoon. These are clothes made for the consumer looking for statement clothes that fall and accentuate the body in a way that the other top tier American designers can never seem to touch. The lengths and proportions are appropriate for when the weather melts away the icy winter and ushers in the warm and cool days and evenings of spring. Most dresses hit around the knee and looked loose but with shape that could flatter almost any body type. A shot of burnt pumpkin mixed in with periwinkle, black, and white all seemed fresh and something we haven't seen this week, and if we have, who cares? The tailoring on jackets and zippered coats gave the weightless fabrics a precise center, anchoring them on the body in a sensual way that only Rodriguez is capable of realizing. Shirt dresses and tapered pants are practical for the office but the collection was complete in shimmery minidresses and belted pieces that feel just right for evening. His menswear collection was no slouch either with the most lean and sinewy suits one could ask for. The razor sharp tailoring in the menswear gave us the essential white shirt, a short sleeved suit that actually seemed wearable, and jackets with a controlled volumed. Strong, sexy, and grown-up, this is what I want from clothes. A personality exists in the clothes but they are malleable to the most important part of fashion, the body.

Standouts:
Coazt dress with a dangerous front zipper and belted with a contemporary take on an obi
Androgyny at its finest
The perfect macintosh for a rainy day
The black suit
White shorts

Bitch, Please on:
Behnaz Sarafpour
Marchesa
Rachel Roy

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