marc jacobs

Have you ever wondered what must like be to in the mind of the wildly transgressive mind of Marc Jacobs? Judging by his spring collection, it percolates with a feverish intensity for the ironic, bizarre, and mundane but most importantly, tinged with a smack of sex. The two hour wait that will surely gain infamy for years to come was the foreplay that lead to a unique climax of deconstruction, revision, and interpretation. It was a bold move after the sublime 70s French Vogue/"The Conformist" show from last season. Millinery that payed homage to Elizabeth Taylor, slashed seams, innovative shoes that scream pleasure/pain, video projections of the models in their undergarments, and the show in complete reversal. The sum of the shows parts added up to a complicated and broad end that as all good art should, provokes us to think in a new direction and push us along for the fantastical ride. But what does it all mean?

The past few years Mr. Jacobs has become increasingly a provocateur of American ideas and traditions in the form of performance presentations. (past shows have included the University of Penn marching band, lawn inspired runways, and homages to himself) As his brush stroke has grow into something more dense and probing, the canvas becomes just as grand to reveal his narrative for the season. For spring a Marc Jacobs woman is dashing into her cab after a night of joyful sex. The proper dose of skin, the high slits, and unusual layering and draping look as if a woman has reassembled her clothes into a surreal cocktail of exposed primness. The whirl of the night remembered was the spirit of the show. The mood was also extremely post-coital and I get the impression Mr. Jacobs wants us to not just see sexy clothes but think about these sexy clothes. These are clothes that will stay with us, much in the same regard as memorable and rewarding sex. The memory may fade or confuse over time but the mussed hair, the ripped clothes, and the panties (those panties!) will always linger. Mr. Jacobs referenced Elizabeth Taylor's raw sensuality in the slip dressing from "Butterfield 8", but made it extremely modern and avant garde. This isn't your traditional take on sportswear. It's a little dirtier and appropriate for a cab ride home when the hem of a skirt is the source of constant fidgeting and the zipper on a dress doesn't want to comply. It's activewear and luxury in a new context. It's also a very personal statement as we have the privilege of visiting Mr. Jacob's wicked wet dream that leaves us feeling as if this might be one of his most personal collections, which in essence is as revealing as seeing Mr. Jacobs himself in his underwear.

The right amount of indulgence, spectacle, thought, and execution established this as one of the strongest shows of the week. However, I do pose the question, are such antics only acceptable because it's American fashion's leading enfant terrible? Jacobs can keep us waiting for whatever mood he's in for the season because as we learned from his show, the payoff is always a little quirky, a little awkward, and a lot sexy.

And for your viewing pleasure because so much of this show is about its stunning visual communication:


Bitch, Please on:
Heatherette
JustSweet
Thakoon
Anna Sui

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Marc Jacobs post-show fallout gossip