calvin klein

As an antidote to the frill and costumey embellishments that permeate throughout many collections in New York, it's refreshing to see something so pure and reduced of excess. When you take away everything and leave very little, what are you left with? I would say something a little more uncompromising and precise. For that you can assuredly turn to Franciso Costa of Calvin Klein and his long, languid shapes for spring. This was a collection about the beauty of movement and looseness but in a minimalist controlled sense. Many of the looks had the same effect of water pouring from a glass. The curved seams that fell and cascaded around the model's bodies, the similarities between the look of silk and water, and the long, straight hair that looked as free flowing and still as a body of water concluded into something very contemporary and spot-on for the season. Lithe halter dresses, high-waisted trousers that moved with the body, and slinky t-shirt dresses gave the show a singularity and a variety of looks that didn't exist on any other runway. It's feminine and refined, but fluid in its specificity. The color palette gradated from snowy whites (ironic for spring, right?), pale cements, flesh, and shades of lettuce and steely blues. Costa's minimalism isn't a hard edge version, but a slight sensuality that is as attractive and simple as those sexy little slip dresses.

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Marc by Marc Jacobs