rodarte

There's a shockingly grotesque scene at the climax of David Cronenberg's 1979 horror divorce thriller, "The Brood", in which we find our hero's deranged ex-wife giving birth to a demon child. Her hair is perfectly roller set '70s and looks very angelic in her soft focus lighting, but when she opens her white gown to reveal a bloody pouch/appendage that she pries open with her teeth and then proceeds to lick the baby clean in the utterly most repulsively maternal way, the image doesn't leave you for a long time. For one reason or another I think of that scene when I look at the fall collection from sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, designer duo for the ethereally demented semi-haute couture line, Rodarte. The collection wasn't repulsive, but that same Cronenberg-esque under current of darkness that belies something very pretty and banal seemed more coherent and emotional than in collection's past. I appreciate the work that goes into their design, but sometimes I feel they are too in their own heads of dreamy otherworlds that can be too esoteric or jarring to most. However, this collection was rich in textures and more macabre in its mood and execution.

Last season the sisters cited Japanese slasher films as the starting point for the collection and it carried over to this season with better results. The effect of pale models covered in blood red stained wispy dresses looked really original and daring. It also helps that the model's lips had a dark cherry tint to them almost as if they have spent the night sucking blood and drinking wine. Gone are those stupid floppy hats from last season to allow a greater concentration on the clothes, and what a sight they were. Sheerness has always been a Rodarte staple but tights that looked like cobwebs creeping up the model's legs and light, airy layers of lace and chiffon were ladylike but smartly juxtaposed with those killer heels, literally. The knit designs this season looked more tattered and badass. Although some of the models looked like Degas ballerinas, their leather gloves and towering, spiked heels told a different story. It may all sound like a bit much, but this is what the Mulleavy sisters excel at. Their attempts at daywear that included high waisted slim pants and tea cup skirts were nice but fantasy is their franchise and they should stick with it, especially when it's this terrifyingly good.

Bitch, Please is killin' 'em:
Vivienne Tam
Narciso Rodriguez
Behnaz Sarafpour