proenza schouler

Funny name, talented designer pair. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the mad scientists behind Proenza Schouler confidently and contentedly marched to the beat of their own drum with their fall presentation. Last season I thought some of the styling was fuddy duddy (funky hats and feathers), but gone are those distractions and for fall they showed range in color, cut, and execution. Inspired by the folds and fans of paper planes and refreshing jolt of jewel tones, the collection was full of smart ideas and beautiful clothes--two things any woman would want.

The folding and tucking started from look one in the form of a bold mini-dress paired with contrasting tights and equally eye-popping shoes. To take something as simple as a solid color and the fold of a fabric and make something that feels very contemporary and fresh is a testament to McCollough and Hernandez's skill. The fabric bounced along with the body, controlled in such a way that you can see their handy work but be amazed at how polished it looks for it being part of the garment you normally never see. Exposure, or rather exposing the insides of the folds was a theme throughout. A designer who is more inspired by shape, cut, and color and not trying to pay homage to some movie or pop song is what I have been waiting for all week. Their take on color was especially striking. To change one's perception of color and what it can evoked when contrasted with another color is a true triumph. A purple mini-dress, with cascading folds paired with mustard tights and emerald shoes was perfectly mod but very now and right for fall. Exaggerated bows that clasped to collars looked feminine and just the appropriate dose of frill and femininity. When the hemlines weren't itty bitty, there were billowy trousers and coats like I've never seen before. Some had the folding technique applied to them while others were juxtaposed against metallic and beaded skirts. Lantern sleeves, lace, and Yeti looking wool followed, which could have been reduced, but the effect didn't take away from a young, cool collection.

The final parade of beaded minidress with a maxi version to complete the thought looked as if each girl were awash in modern glamour, and for that you get a sense that these boys know what they're doing.

Bitch, Please on:
Rodarte
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Proenza Schouler