jonathan saunders

Last season the British lablel Preen jumped across the pond to show in New York and it looks like they started a growing trend with the American debut of burgeoning British designer Jonathan Saunders. Known for his innovative take on color blocking, pleating, and structured minimalism, he stands out in the club kid circus arena that has become the toast du jour in London fashion as of late. His sleek take on urban dressing can be suited for New York and for the most part, the ideas and the intention was there, but often certain looks were bogged down by excess and a dire need to pare down.

The silhouette was lithe, statuesque, and strong with the models' hair slicked to their head like cue balls and bare makeup. The linear designs stopped just above mid-calf length or full to the floor to extend that bold line. Along the way down Saunders added strips and panels of pleats to the hip, which was not the most intelligent move since most women want to conceal or flaunt their hips, not add big strips of fabric to them. The silhouette and body conscious attitude is already not for most and by adding even trickier elements seemed completely off. When those panels were absent, looks excelled, namely a sexy zip-front coat with a fox trim and a sexy black evening dress that hugged the model's frame tightly. Outwear tailored with razor sharp precision, tall boots, and cinched waists are in combination a severe look that won't allow for much room to breath, but Saunders has room to grow in New York and learn from such mistakes.

The colors were decidedly muted and unremarkable (shades of beige was a stumble). There should have been a vibrancy or an aliveness with clothes that clamored to the body, but perhaps Saunder's big debut proved too much for him because the usual appeal of his clothes is how calm and cool they appear.

Bitch, Please on:
James Coviello
Preen
Hervé Léger by Max Azria