Monday, February 4, 2008

patrik ervell


For fear of sounding like a broken record, I'll refrain from mentioning that this is boyswear, not menswear, that we're talking about. I have not seen models for a mens show look so young since the Hedi Slimane days, and that was European fashion so we can give them a little of leeway. What does it say about men in the 21st century who want to look like little children? Granted, we are in an unusual state where men have been rendered unnecessary to a woman since they can work, procreate, and rule the world (and possibly this country) without the physical presence of a man. Without a sense of purpose it appears men have regressed to a childlike phase where responsibility is alien to them and we must dress like we did in fifth grade, proportions and all. You can look to the Sexual Revolution, the fetishization of the midcentury aesthetic as infantilized and perpetuated by designer Thom Browne, or the films of Judd Apatow and you can see something is a little off when it comes to the definition of man in the 2000s. Or you can look at Patrick Ervell's fall collection of slim suits, gold accented hoodies, and models with their best Jesus pretty boy hair and you begin to wonder if Ervell is in some way canonizing his subject and applying a bit of gold dust for just the right amount of true golden God shimmer. The stronger and less bothersome ideas of the collection existed in the outerwear and those wonderful shawl collar sweaters. Oatmeal and pale khaki are not my favorite colors, but the neutral colors worked for what was a simple, streamlined collection fueled by well tailored suits, parkas, and hoodies. To further his boyish message the collection was devoid of neckties but full of the sweater Grandma gives for Christmas and the letterman jacket handed down by your older brother. When will the man boy grow up in fashion? Not any time soon according to Ervell.

3 comments:

Leigh said...

it's the jonas brothers!

w. said...

i was thinking the same thing. weird.

Anonymous said...

Agreed. Enough boys, already. Even Ralph Lauren, who in the 80's (with Bruce Weber) used a lot of men who were real professionals (not models) now employs young-ins.

I think this really hurts the clothes, too. Clothes--at least in menswear--are meant to be show character, to mean something, to show wit and/or experience...the kids walking down the runways now have none of that.