rag & bone

There's a certain feeling of elation when an artist is able to focus what makes them so distinct and singular and can evolve that identity. The Coen Brothers' "No Country Old Men" had all those reliable Coen Brotherisms that makes their films such a joy to watch but this film was leaner, meaner, and without the cutesy wink, wink that often holds them back from fully realizing their potential. Radiohead's "In Rainbows" is the pure, millennial rock 'n roll we want from them but they're able to take our expectations and move us in a different way. David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, the designers of Rag & Bone have returned to form for Fall with a militaristic, naughty prep school vibe that is at once what they're so good at (exquisite tailoring) but it's more refined and a proposition that feels fresh and something they've never said before.

Their womenswear last season was too feminine and off the mark for a brand that is all about structured, masculine edge. Neville and Wainwright were keen enough to recognize that romanticism is not their strong suit, but the look for Fall was unmistakably and unabashedly feminine and sexy in the language Rag & Bone is best at articulating. Beautifully constructed double-breasted jackets paired with daring minis and thigh highs (the sexiest incarnation I've seen in a while) offered that perfect balance between the Rag & Bone aesthetic and something that would make any woman feel confident, strong, and modern. Olga Sherer had the appearance of curves in a bustier dress with opaque sleeves, topped with a chic beret. The monochromatic palette of charcoal and foggy grays perfectly punctuated with smoky blues and purples convey a very attractive definition of urban sophistication. The androgynous suits on the lovely Hilary Rhoda, Freja Beha Erichson, and Coco Rocha were sublime in their fluidity and fit. A leather shift and the gold jewelry by Lauren Bacquet were standouts. However, omitting the jodhpurs would have a wise decision because I'm not sure what body type that flatters (and Ralph Lauren does it to death), but it's a minor quibble in an otherwise satisfying collection.

For men Neville and Wainwright carried over that same intensity and polish from the womenswear with surprising results. If the Rag & Bone man was a late '60s Sean Connery last season, he's now a hero with more brood and guts. This was a very grown-up collection that never entertained the idea of t-shirts and jeans for Fall, but instead finely crafted blazers, suits, ties complete with t-bars, scarves, and an emphasis on the silhouette. A heroic shoulder, high collar shirts, double-breasted waistcoats, and a wrap around styling detail around the ankle was a total and well thought out look. It was all very stately but dark and youthful. A black peacoat with brass buttons worn by Danny Beauchamp pleased the eye.

An assured and well executed collection, Rag & Bone is an early favorite for the best of the week.

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Elie Tahari