Monday, June 25, 2007

a woman under the influence

Remember that wonderful morsel of information I had a while back about Cloak's Alexandre Plokhov lending his vision to Versace's menswear line? Well, now we can bask in its perfectly alchemic results. It is the eve of the ten year anniversary of Gianni Versace's death and it seems Donatella Versace is finally moving away from his identifiably Milanese pretty boy aesthetic progressing into a more neutral and refined definition of the Versace label. Her last womenswear collection was some of her best work and some critics even called it "minimalist." The thought of a paired down Versace may sound sacrilegious but maybe this is what Donatella has been wanting to say and do but never found her footing under the intense cloud of success hanging over her head that her brother had created. How could she betray the aesthetic that established the label? The flair and sexiness of Versace is still there, but thanks to her new partnership with Plokhov, we're seeing something fresh and exciting for the menswear label. Plokhov's New Wave punk and militaristic man of substance is giving Versace the aspiration to grow in a place where everything is not so pink and covered in Medusa heads.

Say goodbye to:

Versace, Spring 2006


Welcome looks from Spring 2008:


This look in particular reminds me of Cloak's Kraftwerk inspired Spring 2007 collection.


Although I was not there to witness the construction and allure of the clothes in person, the ideas that come from these pieces makes me willing to follow in this new pursuit of Donatella's and Alexandre's.

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