Wednesday, May 2, 2007

a tribute: alexandre plokhov


it's one thing for proenza schouler to do a line for target, but rodarte, thakoon, and doo. ri for gap? is this reverse sexism in the fashion industry or the assumption that most men wouldn't want an inexpensive piece by kris van assche or duckie brown? whatever the case, as much as there is a market for the fashionably conscious and knowledgeable woman (or any woman who keeps a trusty copy of vogue on her), there are men who want clothes that have the same edgy, fresh approach from young designers, but don't break the bank.

cheer up, fellas! thanks to everybody's favorite reasonably priced japanese retailer, uniqlo, accessible and affordable men's wear finally gets it due from the visionary minds of halb, satoru tanaka, and alexandre plokhov (formerly of cloak). gq has a first look of plokhov's line that he describes as a "postcoard from new york" but "cloak's cousin from japan." whatever plokhov whips up, i'm sure it will be dark, minimal, and expertly cut--all things i've always loved about the quiet russian who was the darling of new york men's wear for the past few years. his austere combination of militaristic punk and brooding new wave goth inspired me and made him one to watch. unfortunately, he sold his business last year after only seven years in the game, but his influence still lingers.

cloak highlights:

spring 2007


spring 2006



fall 2006


fall 2005



fall 2006

i adore the tailoring in that show and the mix of prints and textures. currently he's a consultant with the versace men's wear line. hmm...russian post-www II punk meets pampered milanese pretty boy? i'll have to see it to believe it.

2 comments:

Leigh said...

the gap designer line is cute, especially the rodarte pieces, but grossly overpriced. maybe i'm just a cheapskate, but i am not paying that much for a white blouse.

although i totally got one of those satin proenza schouler bustier tops on sale for $25. i love target.

Marcellus said...

The Gap designer line has, rightfully and thankfully, failed miserably. It was a very rushed and half-hearted attempt to cash into H&M's overwhelming success with the likes of Stella, Karl, et al.

Regarding Uniqlo, it's H&M with quality control. It's good, it's for real, I love it. Now, like H&M, please expand to B markets.