lanvin

Alber Elbaz has always been more interested in the relationship between the body and the garment more so than conducting a full on circus for his shows at Lanvin. For spring that ever-inspiring and evolving relationship was beautifully orchestrated on full on display in what was perhaps the best show of Paris. It's everything you want from fashion--fantasy, reality, and most of all, truth and beauty. Elbaz's stunning use of fabric, pleating, color, and aerodynamics was a triumph that didn't seem coolly out of step but in fact, exuded a directional and propulsive edge that his contemporaries cannot match. Inspired by pushing his own creativity and what appeared to be volume and lightness, the Lanvin woman for next Spring is surely to be pleased with the technical ferocity of Elbaz's deft skill and the varitable platter of easy, breezy evening frocks and smart daytime looks.

With their Robert Palmer backup dancers ponytail and dark maquillage, the models looked fiercely powerful but the clothes moved around their bodies in such a comfortable and no frills way. The pleated dresses were the focus of the show and found their place in sexy wrap around the neck day dresses, ruffled minidresses, and commanding Technicolor maxidresses that could easily allow a woman to cut through the fray. The deep cobalt blue, emerald, marigold, tomato red, and royal purple were balanced with sobering and subdued khakis and olives that allowed the palette not to be garish but even and spot-on. Aside from the brilliant use of color, Elbaz was most impressive with the wide range that he proposed for spring. Pencil skirts, tuxedo dressing, billowy dresses given structure with a waist defining belt, shifts, flyaway coats, and asymmetrical pieces were a visual cacophony of design confidence and brio. The mood was all about fluidity, whether it be fluidity in movement or fluidity in sexuality with the masculine/feminine look played out in androgynous tuxedos and suits. All of the looks had a personality and a weightlessness to them that set them apart.

This show was about clothes and not about trying to play up to a polarizing concept or some fleeting trends. Following the beat of his own sartorial drum keeps Elbaz at his most successful and us at our most enraptured. Thank you, Mr. Elbaz.

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