the couturier

As a man fashion is a matter of pragmatism and not the full on fantasy that is sold to women. Either that or I have lost my critical ability to look at women's fashion, but I couldn't wrap my brain around the recent Paris haute couture collections. They're stunning in their construction and aesthetic achievement, but I have no frame of reference for enjoying it. It's not for me and the narratives behind most of the collections are things that are of no interest to me (sea shells at Chanel, mermaids at Jean Paul Gaultier, and diamonds at Ellie Saab). However, I cannot stop admiring the unsettling and provocative beauty of Riccardo Tisci's collection for Givenchy. It's sparse, striking, and smolders in a way that feels fresh and curious about how to adorn the female form. The mannish tailored jackets that are flounced at the waist to emphasize femininity, the graphic black and white palette, the curved seams that at times burst into folds of fabric, and the fascination with leather pants culminated in a collection that was in his own way a take on the Givenchy staples (the little black dress, the white blouse, and a gamine sensibility) but is not concerned with being costumey or overly pretty like his older couture contemporaries. Since Tisci joined the house in 2005 he's attracted a new audience to follow his unique and at times avant garde brand of glamour and thought and I must say I'm included.


Click to watch his best ready-to-wear show to date.