milan: versace

Electric relaxation is an apt hybrid of words to describe Versace’s spring 2009 men’s wear collection. A men’s wear collection minus neckties, shirts unbuttoned to the sternum, pants that were the opposite of stovepipes, wispy summer scarves, and an overall lightness in being culminated in a redefinition, or refinement depending on how you want to phrase it, of what we think of when it comes to casual menswear. This Versace man is confident, comfortable, at ease, all qualities that are certainly attractive. Perhaps then it makes sense that Donatella dedicated this collection to “the man of the moment”, Democratic presidential nominee Barack Obama. I’m not sure that I could see Obama sporting a tank with a screen-printed plume of smoke coiling up his abdomen, but the strength in these clothes is what people see in Obama—refreshing, cool, and powerful without waving a big stick.

Over the past few seasons at the women’s and men’s labels, there has been a relatively dramatic aesthetic shift at Versace. The new Versace ideal is someone who wants bold, streamlined clothes that exude a certain kind of purity in their subtleness and sensual tailoring. Trenches with interesting flap details, snappy little Army influenced jackets, and a white button down with a zipper slashed across the arm showed the influence of former Cloak designer and current creative contributor to the men’s wear line, Alexandre Plokhov. His strength as a tailor with a sharp edge was beautifully put to use in one button suits (Who wants to bother with more than one when you look that good?) and slim shawl collared suit jackets paired with shorts. Call it a new Casual Friday uniform, but Versace supplied the goods for men who want to look effortlessly and casually put together.

Donatella is smart enough and respectful enough not to forget the roots of the brand. The creamy color palette and electric sheen on the clothes would be perfect for any true Milanese playboy. For next spring, throw away those ties and maybe every man can have a taste of this good life Donatella promises.

manhattan

Donatella Versace, Woody Allen, and his wife, Soon Yi Previn
at the opening of the Versace menswear collection at Barneys in NYC

"I've been friends with Donatella for a while, and one important thing that I learned from her is to never say no to her," said Allen. "I can also claim to have many wonderful Versace cashmere sweaters in my closet."--Fashion Week Daily

photo courtesy of dlisted

milan fashion week: outerwear

Five painfully bad coats from the Milan menswear collections:

Versace
Alexander McQueen
Burberry Prorsum
Jil Sander
Dolce & Gabbana

versace

I'll let the clothes and the way the women move in them to speak for themselves on this collection. Those are clothes made for sexy motherfuckers.