tony melillo

Tony Melillo, I have no idea who you are but I must say that I am somewhat impressed with what you had to offer in your spring collection. Yes, it was redundant in spots and stuck mostly to a cement and ash color palette, but the ideas were there. The Bermuda shorts and cardigan combination is something I would wear without a thought but adding a drapey, cowl looking scarf does separate the followers from the adventurous. It's a great tension between structure and looseness that implies depth and thought in the design. A moody youth vibe cast a pall over the show with a slightly subversive treatment of traditional dressing. Ties were non-existent and most shirts were half tucked in and completely unbuttoned. This rebellion is alluring in its conceit in that it reminded me of my middle school days when we were forced to conform to belts and tucking in our offensive shirt tails. I especially like the loose tailoring of your one button, single-breasted short shut that minus the shorts would look very unique in my closet. Subtlety is key in this collection and when you make clothes as easy, comfortable looking, and youthful, why complain about the sobering simplicity that would otherwise be dull in any other collection?

Standouts:
White cardigan
Gray flat front trousers
An effortless pairing of an oxford over a zip front hoodie.

Bitch, Please on:
Baby Phat

ralph lauren

It was a day at the races for the 40th anniversary show at Ralph Lauren. A true iconic testament to everything American sportswear, Lauren has shaped our desire to have the right clothes for a weekend in Aspen or a black tie event on Park Avenue. It's a very specific look that has been consistent and influential not only in how we dress but it's evolved into a lifestyle brand, solidifying Lauren as purveyor of American thoroughbred chic. This collection, presented for the titans of New York (Sarah Jessica, Mayor Bloomberg, Martha Stewart, DeNiro, etc.), wasn't so much a retrospective of what he's good at but a dynamic expression of taste, tailoring, and proving that although his brand is almost a half century old, he's still as relevant and interesting to watch. His inspiration may have been New York and "My Fair Lady", but maybe because of my Kentucky roots, there was something deliciously Southern, and specifically Derbyfied about the show. A strong equestrian influence touched almost every look ranging from the crisp riding jodhpurs, dresses draped in what appeared to be jockey silks, riding crops as an unexpected accessory, and a cacophony of splendid head attire fit for just the right Derby extravaganza. His women expertly straddled the line between Southern deb and English prepster in sculpted blazers in black and white and silk blouses in various candy colors. The mix of the white and black, floral print, and evening sections of jewel tones worked in crafty harmony. Although many of the looks picked up on the masculine/feminine approach, each look highlighted the best parts of a woman's body--shoulders, arms, waist, and the neck. It was also a very ladylike presentation with gloves, hats, pearls, and bags in abundance. We've seen him do all this before but this time it's better and there's a reflection in his statement. Where would American women be without their favorite Polo sweater resting on their shoulders or the sophisticated evening gown begging for a gasp upon entering a room? Young designers should take note of Lauren's power and prowess in American fashion. He is the definition of someone who loves innovation, the body, and what it means to be and look American.

Standouts:
The best bermudas I've seen all week
The beaded evening gown
A short suit perfect for spring
A modern but romantic LBD

Gold Digger on:
Carolina Herrera

3.1 phillip lim

If there is anyone with more eyes on him this week it's Phillip Lim. No, he doesn't have the financial backing of a major conglomerate and no he's not rebounding from a miserable season past, the focus on Lim and his brand, 3.1 Phillip Lim, is whether he continue his quick ascension to the top that he has forged so effortlessly and surprisingly in such a short amount of time. His pieces are untraditional takes on traditional pieces. A refreshing color or unique detail will separate him from his contemporaries and most importantly, earn him a audience that comes back for more, especially when you price the collection at a somewhat reasonable price point. (pieces often range from around $100 and up) His covetable pieces are known for selling out before the end of the season and exude a quiet, modern, simplicity that's never over reaching. For his spring collection you could tell the pressure was on and for the most part he delivered. It's a sandal season for Lim and that was one of the initial problems I had with the show. Perhaps it's because Birkenstocks are a crime of nature to me and I have no interest in sandals except for toiling around the house or at the beach, but sandals were everywhere in the collection. The idea of pairing funky sandals that fastened at the ankle was somewhat acceptable on women, but a misstep for men. The details were there in a minidress with a graphic texture over the bust and stone pendants dangling from the neck (the oatmeal color was a little off), a citrus knee length dress adorned with a strands of metallic ropes at the clavicle, or belts on evening dresses. The fringe accents on some pieces were also off track but when he got it he did with an "Umbrellas of Cherbourg" worthy blue minidress and yellow coat or a gold mini with control that was a welcomed respite to the volume in the other dresses. The mens collection was strong as ever with my favorite being the dark shorts with a double-breasted jacket or a Coca Cola can-red trench that continues the trend this week of primary colors used in traditional outwear. The pale gold sweater with a tiny white bow protruding from the collar was something I haven't seen and when paired with the simple flat front short it's less costumey and cutesy. The collection used primary colors quite a bit and smartly paired them against muted khakis and other earth tones. Does it all culminate to a success? It depends on who you ask I suppose, but in my mind I wanted more from Lim. It did drum up memories of "Sesame Street" (maybe it's all of those colors) and "Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory" (look at how the models wear their hats and look at how Gene Wilder wore his in the film), but maybe that isn't such a bad thing. I do, however, like my a clothes just a little more grown-up.

Gold Digger on:
Preen vs. Peter Som

Bitch, Please on:
Threeasfour
Preen
Sue Stemp

first look: the assassination of jesse james by the coward robert ford

"The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford"
dir., Andrew Dominik
2007

What a lush and unusual looking western. I see traces of "The Talented Mr. Ripley", "McCabe & Mrs. Miller", and "Days of Heaven." Mr. Pitt won the best actor prize at the Venice Film festival this weekend for what Todd McCarthy of Variety calls a "layered, continually interesting performance." The western is not my usual cinematic cup of tea, but I might give this one a try.

band of outsiders

A nautical theme is a touchstone for many spring presentations and Band of Outsiders took it to the sea, literally, for their collection. Known for their slim ties, fitted oxfords, and kooky blog, they have become the go to brand for modern, youthful refinement with a sense of humor but history and appreciation of American sportswear. The boat shoes paired with tuxedos, little boy blazers, and straw fedoras on the sprite like models suggested a nostalgia in the concept, perhaps a little boy playing dress up on his chic father's yacht. Gray, navy, stripes, and layered collars are the sartorial epitome of WASPy pomp and circumstance. It works and it doesn't. The oxfords and vests on the women excel at the femme meets masculine style of dressing and the light, striped cabana shirts are fun and ideal for the type of activity the clothes call for. (the cast of "The Talented Mr. Ripley" lounging on a boat in the Mediterranean comes to mind) Clothes this easy and speak of such an effortless tony and masculine style shouldn't be dressed up and overwhelmed by models as mannequins staged on a boat. Giving them a charming context is a great idea but why bother when the clothes are so good they speak for themselves? (see also Trovata)

Standouts:
Femme tuxedo
A well styled get up necessary for a night entertaining on a yacht
Pink and gray on brown skin always work

Bitch, Please on:
Rodarte
Vena Cava

models, inc.

Where has my dear Hilary been? She has been absent from the shows this week. Can we cross our fingers for an appearance at Milan and Paris?

Also M.I.A.: Doutzen Kroes, Gemma Ward, and Daria Werbowy

What do we think of Freja Beha Erichsen's new cut?

At Rag & Bone
and...
Chanel Iman is blowing up. This is only her second season in New York and she has been in over a dozen shows. When you have a name like that I guess you are made for fashion.
At Ralph Lauren

photos courtesy of the fashion spot and style.com

narciso rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez's "ninjas" descended upon the runway this weekend in what is surely one of the best shows of the week. His minimalist palette is consistent every season with an almost compulsive love for tailoring and fit. His clothes are linear and architectural in their detailing which leads to the effect of fabric covering the body almost like a modern sculpture. His theme this season of kimono dressing could have been gimmicky, but the subtle nipped waists and loose and crisp looks that Rodriguez envisioned were anything but a cartoon. These are clothes made for the consumer looking for statement clothes that fall and accentuate the body in a way that the other top tier American designers can never seem to touch. The lengths and proportions are appropriate for when the weather melts away the icy winter and ushers in the warm and cool days and evenings of spring. Most dresses hit around the knee and looked loose but with shape that could flatter almost any body type. A shot of burnt pumpkin mixed in with periwinkle, black, and white all seemed fresh and something we haven't seen this week, and if we have, who cares? The tailoring on jackets and zippered coats gave the weightless fabrics a precise center, anchoring them on the body in a sensual way that only Rodriguez is capable of realizing. Shirt dresses and tapered pants are practical for the office but the collection was complete in shimmery minidresses and belted pieces that feel just right for evening. His menswear collection was no slouch either with the most lean and sinewy suits one could ask for. The razor sharp tailoring in the menswear gave us the essential white shirt, a short sleeved suit that actually seemed wearable, and jackets with a controlled volumed. Strong, sexy, and grown-up, this is what I want from clothes. A personality exists in the clothes but they are malleable to the most important part of fashion, the body.

Standouts:
Coazt dress with a dangerous front zipper and belted with a contemporary take on an obi
Androgyny at its finest
The perfect macintosh for a rainy day
The black suit
White shorts

Bitch, Please on:
Behnaz Sarafpour
Marchesa
Rachel Roy

trovata

Don't the let the recent departure of the three founding members of Trovata allow you to think that the over the top presentations would be a thing of the past. John Whitledge, the sole designer left to carry the brand staged quite the spectacle to unveil the spring collection. Inspired by his Brazilian girlfriend (a source of inspiration you probably will not hear the rest of the week), Whitledge conjured up a dream of breezy nights on the beach with the perfect linen scarf and the ideal stripped top. The clothes were simple and a continuation of the preppy meets surfer duded that Trovata does so well. Chartreuse, white, and navy were on the color agenda, mostly in solids or stripes. The clothes, as a whole, were inoffensive and so wearable that you wonder if any punch exists in them enough to invest pieces you probably already own and like (stripped tops, linen shorts, and sweater vests). Every season I think of Trovata as being everything J. Crew wishes it could be (the chic faux WASP) but without the taint of its availability in malls and bargain outlets. The clothes aren't boring but if they weren't presented with such gusto and showmanship you'd get that nagging feeling about it being two steps away from belonging at Mall of America. This season was no exception with a skinny jeanned Perry Farell, exotic Brazilian dancers, and other finery giving the clothes some drama to absorb. It's a wonder Whitledge decided to invest in such a show for a collection consisting of less than ten looks. Granted, Trovata has made puzzling but fun performances pieces their mainstay (past collections include a an homage to all things Alpine, faux European journalists sporting the latest pieces from the collection while toting an oddly calm cat, and what looked like the home of Royal Tenenbaum) but what do the clothes say if anything when they're competing with the eye candy that envelops it so often? Remove the clothes from a a man and you can see what you got, but when you remove the theatrics of a show to reveal the clothes perhaps something more revealing than a naked body can be seen.

Standouts:
Linen scarf
Two toned cardigan

duckie brown

Menswear can typically be so conservative and--gasp!--boring, but when designers play with shape, color, and proportion that's when things get interesting and menswear earns some much needed weight. There are only so many ways that one can play with a shirt or a pair of pants, but it's difficult to resist the way Steven Cox and Daniel Silver attempt to progress the idea of "menswear" into an arena where sherbet hued wide leg pants and over sized floral print tops make sense. The pops of raspberry, school bus yellow, and gold imbued the collection with an optimism that's attractive in its ideas but not entirely appealing in its wearability. There was something comforting about their expansive hoodie (also fetching in their Fall 07 collection) and their beautifully youthful jackets that when paired with voluminous pants hints at something more daring than your average jacket and pants combination, but the florals and old man socks with shorts combination could have been left to the wayside. Layering was also key in the collection from longer shirts paired under shorter jackets or a shimmery gold sweatshirt over a white t-shirt. There was also an emphasis on the long jacket with shorts look that is so hard to pull off but per their insistence of the look it could be given a second try come spring. It's going to be a bold season in the world of Duckie Brown.

Standouts:
Short double-breasted jacket paired with long t-shirt and baggy shorts
The perfectly tailored leather jacket
Three piece suit minus the tie that is just right

Bitch, Please on:
Alexander Wang
Badgley Mischka
L.A.M.B.
Nicole Miller
BCBG Max Azria

Gold Digger on:
Diesel
Diane Von Furstenberg
Band of Outsiders
Catherine Malandrino
Vera Wang

trend alert: who wears short shorts?

Michael Bastian
Thom Browne
Lacoste

I hope this doesn't mean the Gap will be offering hot pants in the mens section next spring.