new york: narciso rodriguez

Stripes, in all their minimal contrasting glory, would appear to be territory Narciso Rodriguez would have already conquered. If he did, it couldn't possibly compare to the way in which when he broke them down and applied them in his usual sensual vocabulary for Spring/Summer 2009. I can't think of any other designer that can take such linear shapes and use them to accentuate, expose, and create curves on the female form. From the opening look on bombshell Isabeli Fontana in a black blouse with a razor sharp neckline and rounded three quarter length sleeves, it was familiar Rodriguez, but it was the skirt that thrilled in a new way. A simple pencil skirt that looked as if he took a permanent marker and etched a series of perpendicular lines was stunning in its sublime minimalism. And being the master of sensual seduction, Rodriguez didn't let up from there.

Rodriguez is a designer in the truest form of the word. He designs with shapes and colors in mind and manipulates them each season so that they remain fresh and new, although the same crisp white jacket from two season ago would work with his slim trouser on Freja Beha that looked as if a single ribbon had been wrapped around the leg of the pant. Exposed zippers were worked into the linear theme, which is becoming a bit of a trend for the New York season, and he did it down the front of elegantly austere dresses and sculptural jackets. The idea of being able to unzip a woman from the front is far naughtier and interesting than the Big Ideas that other designers drum up for their own theatrical tricks and quirks, and that's what separates from him the rest of the crop. Bandage dresses were also new for Rodriguez and looked especially sexy with one sleeve and baring just enough skin on Ali Michael. The play with lines juxtaposed with weightlessness and movement continued into beautifully light dresses with supporting harnesses on the bodice with blossoming lower halves, some bearing a nija star print. The nija star print was an odd touch but worked for a designer with such a precise eye and cut. Adhering mostly to his trusted black and white palette, there were colors such a yellow, seafoam, and a shimmering dusty rose that should resonate for next season. There's never enough to look at in a Rodriguez collection. The cutouts from one of his gorgeous evening gowns as well as the swish of movement from the skirts will have you turned on and amazed at such profound craft.