paris: givenchy

Justin Timberlake is the face of Givenchy’s latest men’s fragrance. In the ads he’s casually relaxed while jet-setting from concert to concert, recording new music for his adoring fans, and listening to the delightful tune on some mp3 player. Blah, blah, blah. How could such a safe ad campaign come from a house that’s currently creating some of the most goth, sexual, religious inspired, masterfully tailored clothes? I, for one, would think Mr. Timberlake crooning about his sexy back in leather cuffed shorts, leather leggings, a sleeveless button down shirt, and sleeveless double-breasted waistcoat/jacket would be a revelation. That was only look two in Riccardo Tisci’s brilliant spring men’s wear collection.

Tisci has endured a rocky tenure since taking over the women’s wear side of the brand. Pleasing critics here and there and confusing fashion followers with shows so cerebral it was impossible to fall in love with the clothes. However, he has proved he is an electric force in fashion, giving the Audrey Hepburn version of Givenchy an edgy, raw, and dark, and more recently focused, makeover. For his first men’s wear collection it’s in Tisci’s bones to give his audience something they’re not quite sure they’ll like at first, but it soon will resonate and becomes highly influential. Black and white was his base as well as the proportion of shorts over leggings with a structured top. A traditional two-button suit looked sensational in the same breath as a monochromatic hot pink look that included a daring lace button down, shorts, leggings, socks, and shoes. Transparency and density were at odds as were romantic and sporty in this collection. Warring ideas that confidently complement each other in the most complex of ways gives Tisci’s collections such freshness and excitement. Where else would you see such a dramatic and severe and yet soft and pure look on a tattooed punk?