milan: alexander mcqueen

Body by God, clothes by Alexander McQueen was the vibe at his spring 2009 menswear collection. The relationship between man and his body has definitely changed over the last century or so, especially in this crazy new millennium of “metrosexual”, sexual fluidity quickly becoming the norm (Does anybody know what team anybody plays on anymore?), and womenswear influencing menswear more and more (Who wore skinny jeans first?), it would only take a mind like Alexander McQueen’s to shake it up and break it down in a way you’ve never thought of.

The body was supreme focus of the collection, inside and out. Nude was the prominent color, established by the turtleneck and blazer combo at the start of the show. From there on out, real and designed flesh made an appearance on shirts, bodysuits that looked like something Slim Goodbody might wear, and nets of flesh colored fabric that exposed the torso underneath a suit jacket. McQueen also played with screen-printed shirts that looked like blood was dripping down the body but in fact was a sanguine plume of smoke (A new trend he and Donatella are trying to start?). A cloud of smoke looked like a ribcage on a suit jacket. Such innovative ideas are part of McQueen’s bark, but his bite is in the classic tailoring of the sharp jackets and pants in the collection. They may not look like something every man would want to wear, but any man can’t resist good tailoring.

For such a naughty collection, it’s hard to imagine this sort of exposing of the male form will attract a wide male audience. McQueen has never been synonymous with commerciality, but these aren’t clothes intended for the masses, and yet their base concept will more than likely be highly influential. A man who wants clothes from this directional provocateur will recognize that it’s going to be all about the body come next spring.